A Snob’s Guide to Capri and the Amalfi Coast—With Kids

RafaelTravel2025-06-295540

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A sunlit dreamscape of bougainvillea-draped terraces, colorful cliffside villages, and sapphire seas, the Amalfi Coast has long embodied the very essence of la dolce vita. And it remains a sanctuary for timeless summer rituals—and one of the few places left where authentic, Slim Aarons-esque leisure lives on. But what about all those cruise ship crowds and the parade of influencers posing with €10 gelati, you ask? As long as you know where to go, they can be (mostly) avoided.

As for the common assumption that the region’s refined ambiance and steep terrain make it ill-suited for the chaos of family travel: the Italians actually love bambini and are known to welcome them with genuine enthusiasm. The experience, of course, is defined almost entirely by where you stay. Seasoned travelers know that the best hotels offer more than just aesthetic merits and storied settings; they provide an enchanting escape, too, where the simplest moments become cherished memories. So when you’re ready to brave peak season on the Amalfi Coast with the little ones in tow, here’s how to do it right.

Where to Stay

Hotel La Palma is right in the center of Capri (the rooftop restaurant Bianca is pictured here). Oetker Collection

The region’s beauty is matched by its verticality, which means endless stairs, cliffside paths, and charming but utterly stroller-unfriendly terrain. But for those in the know, a handful of hotels offer the perfect blend of luxury and convenience, all while keeping children entertained—elegantly (in true European fashion, there are no cartoon mascots in sight).

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On Capri, Hotel La Palma, originally the island’s first hotel, has been exquisitely reimagined by Oetker Collection (the group behind Hotel du Cap, Le Bristol, etc.) into a 50-room retreat just steps from the Piazzetta. It strikes a rare balance between grown-up indulgence (think: an Augustinus Bader-stocked spa, a scene-y beach club) alongside thoughtful touches that will impress the youngest travelers. Think lemon-themed welcome kits (complete with sun hats, backpacks, and pop-up tents), gelato tastings, and guided snorkeling excursions through hidden grottos. Kids might spend the afternoon shell-collecting on the beach or diving into storytelling sessions that bring Capri’s mythology and history to life or partaking in culinary workshops. “One of our favorite ways to introduce children to Italian traditions is through our food,” says general manager Imelda Shllaku. And when Mom and Dad want to slip away for dinner at Bianca, the chic rooftop restaurant, a cadre of babysitters are just a phone call away.

Palazzo Avino’s 12th-century facade and signature pink decor are striking, though children may be more impressed by the hotel’s poolside gelato cart. Palazzo Avino

Across the bay in Ravello, Palazzo Avino, affectionately dubbed the "Pink Palace," is a confection of old-world opulence set against vertiginous sea views. The 12th-century villa, run with grace and discretion by the Avino family, feels more like a private estate than a hotel. And it’s great for families, thanks to spacious interconnecting suites, custom children’s menus, and extras like bedtime surprises, pizza-making classes, and treasure hunts in the terraced gardens. Down the hill, the Clubhouse by the Sea, the hotel’s private beach club, offers a stylish seaside escape with candy-striped umbrellas, cliffside loungers, and a pool where children are not just tolerated but genuinely welcomed. “We also curate bespoke activities the whole family can enjoy together, like private boat rides or picnics featuring local specialties,” Attilia Avino says.

Hotel Santa Caterina. Hotel Santa Caterina

Just next door, Caruso, a Belmond Hotel reigns over Ravello from a meticulously restored 11th-century palazzo. Like its storied sister properties in Venice, Portofino, and Florence, Caruso embodies old-world glamour with contemporary comforts. Frescoed salons, antique terracotta tiles, and a gravity-defying infinity pool that dissolves into the horizon set the tone for a stay that is equal parts cinematic and serene. And it excels with children. Amenities like mini bathrobes and handmade toys create a sense of welcome, while the concierge coordinates lemon grove picnics, pasta-making on the terrace, and boat rides to hidden coves. At dinner, the kids’ menu mirrors the adults’—seasonal, refined, and rooted in Campanian tradition.

Further along the coast, Hotel Santa Caterina offers a more relaxed expression of Amalfi luxury and is undoubtedly the most family-friendly hotel in the entire region. Perched above the Tyrrhenian Sea, the family-owned grande dame blends Italian charm with cinematic flair: a glass elevator carved into the cliff whisks guests down to a private beach club, rooms and suites have sunlit balconies perfect for bedtime stargazing, and for multigenerational escapes there are the three- and five-bedroom villas equipped with kitchens and spacious living areas.

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For families with older children (minimum check-in age: 10), Il San Pietro di Positano stands as one of the Amalfi Coast’s most iconic hideaways, where young aesthetes can cruise the coast by Riva, rally on the cliffside tennis court, or pick vegetables in the hotel garden before indulging in Michelin-starred dinners at Zass.

And finally, Grand Hotel Quisisana on Capri remains a perennial favorite for multigen travel, especially among European dynasties, with its regal interiors, marble halls, and spacious interconnecting suites. Yet despite its pedigree (Oscar Wilde, Jackie O, and Grace Kelly have all signed the guestbook), it remains surprisingly unpretentious. The vast grounds include a large pool with designated kid hours, lush gardens, and proximity to everything. No gimmicks, no overly designed kid zones—just a timeless island experience that families have trusted for generations.

Where to Eat

Breakfast with a view at Palazzo Avino. Palazzo Avino

In Positano, the insider’s choice is Da Adolfo, a sun-faded classic reached only by boat. “The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed,” says Carla Sersale, the proprietor of longtime Amalfi Coast icon, Le Sirenuse. “Kids can spend the day in and out of the water, jumping from the little rock that sits in the water at the center of the beach. They can eat a plate of pasta primavera when you call them back!” she says. The adults, naturally, will be drinking chilled Falanghina and grazing on grilled mozzarella while basking in the satisfaction of having found the secret everyone else somehow missed.

Just along the coast in Nerano, Lo Scoglio da Tommaso offers another tier of perfection. “It’s an actual beach and not only rocks,” says Marina Cacciapuoti of Italy Segreta. “It’s spacious, and you can get direct food service from Lo Scoglio to your umbrella.” In other words, authentic Amalfi chic meets complete parental convenience.

Marlow, the author’s 2-year-old son, is a fan of the spaghetti al pomodoro at Caruso. Caruso, a Belmond hotel

Should your sojourn take you near Borgo Santandrea, the hotel's beach club “serves some of the best pizza on the coastline,” says Emily FitzRoy, founder of Bellini Travel, “and it’s one of the few sandy beaches in the area, set in a quiet little bay, so it’s very child-friendly.” Just beyond, another gem awaits: La Tonnarella, hidden away on a tiny beach accessible by boat or even a short swim. “It’s low-key and fantastic,” Cacciapuoti says. “Be sure to order the gamberetti.”

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On Capri, for those seeking something elevated yet unpretentious, a-Ma-Re at Jumeirah is a standout. A collaboration with legendary pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, the menu balances indulgent Neapolitan classics—ziti alla genovese, eggplant parmigiana—with his iconic pizzas, all set against the cinematic backdrop of the Blue Grotto. Also at the hotel, Il Riccio is a magnet for the fashion set, where teenagers can savor sea urchin–laced spaghetti alla chitarra—and brag about it on TikTok, natch.

Cacciapuoti recommends Le Ondine Beach Club for its rock beach setup, and Torre Saracena if sand is non-negotiable. Both provide rare, accessible beach options on an island known more for cliffs and couture than castles in the sand. “And although obvious, a gelato with a freshly made cialda at Buonocore (right next to Hotel La Palma) is a must,” she says.

To impress your adolescent, Caesar Augustus in Anacapri is excellent. Set high above the Gulf of Naples in a former royal villa, this Relais & Châteaux sanctuary welcomes guests (14 and up) with sweeping views, candlelit dinners, and garden strolls.

What to Do

Get a head start with the family Christmas photos at the picturesque and panoramic Giardini di Augusto. Massimo Borchi/Atlantide Phototravel/Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis - Getty Images

While one could easily spend entire days luxuriating in these grand hotels, we recommend taking the kids off property to balance out the indulgence. Combine exercise with a bit of history with a hike to Villa Jovis, which is perched dramatically at the eastern tip of Capri. “Built by the mad Emperor Tiberius in 2 AD, children love his stories—they’re fantastically gory which really brings that part of Roman history to life,” FitzRoy says. Break for spritzes and refreshments at nearby Villa Lysis.

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Back in town, leave some time for the perfect family photo backdrop at the Giardini di Augusto, with its vertiginous views of the Faraglioni. Alternatively, Villa San Michele in Anacapri also comes with fantastic panoramas, plus a little lesson in archaeology, history, and horticulture.

Over on the mainland, most families will skip the steep paths of Positano, though if your kids are past the stroller age, they will enjoy exploring Ravello’s fairytale lanes and Amalfi’s majestic Duomo. For a more substantial historical immersion, opt for a day trip to Pompeii or Paestum.

And if Positano’s stairs feel more punishment than postcard, consider Maiori or Minori instead. “They’re less crowded and have great wider beaches,” Cacciapuoti says.