Closing the Loop at Scale: Andreas Dorner on how RE&UP is Powering Circularity in Textiles

In this exclusive interview, Andreas Dorner, General Manager at RE&UP, reveals how the company is pioneering large-scale textile-to-textile circularity with innovative recycling technologies, robust traceability, and strategic partnerships. Dorner discusses the challenges and opportunities of scaling circular solutions, the importance of cost-competitiveness, and the critical role of collaboration and certification in driving the apparel industry toward a truly sustainable future.

Andreas Dorner has served the textile industry for over 15 years, with a strong focus on sustainable fibre innovation and circular economy models. As the former Senior Commercial Director of Textiles at Lenzing Group and now General Manager at RE&UP, Andreas brings global expertise and a trusted network across leading textile retailers and brands. He is recognised as a thought leader and innovator in recycling fibres, having pioneered the first Circular WBCF in 2017 and holding multiple fibre innovation patents. Outside of work, Andreas enjoys hiking, sailing, continuous learning, classical music, history, and travelling. He has been married for 26 years and is the father of two daughters.

Just Style (JS): Could you outline the core vision that guides RE&UP and how this shapes your strategic goals?

Andreas Dorner (AD): At RE&UP, our vision is simple: make post-consumer textile to textile circularity work at scale. That means we have already developed and implemented technologies that transform end-of-life textiles into high-quality, traceable raw materials and are doing it in a way that’s commercially viable for the industry. We’re building the backbone for circular fashion; we’re not here to be a niche solution. Our strategy reflects that! We’re scaling fast, investing in technology and collaborating across the value chain to turn textile waste into a valuable resource, not a liability.

JS: How does RE&UP’s textile recycling technology differ from other solutions in the market?

AD: What sets us apart is our ability to recycle existing post-consumer textile waste – we handle blended textiles at scale, particularly coloured polycotton with elastane, which has long been a pain point in recycling. Our proprietary decolourisation and separation technologies allow us to break down these blends and recover both cotton and polyester fibres that perform very similarly to virgin materials. While many recycling methods result in lower-grade outputs, we produce Next-Gen recycled fibres that can be easily implemented into the textile value chain and are traceable. That’s a big win for brands needing both performance and transparency.

JS: As you aim to expand globally, what are the anticipated challenges in scaling up and your strategies to address them?

AD: Scaling this kind of operation isn’t just about more machines; it’s about building regional ecosystems that can support textile-to-textile recycling. That includes reliable feedstock sources, local infrastructure and navigating patchy regulatory environments. The good news? We’re already the largest player in this space and are doubling our production capacity in Turkey and expanding into Europe to reach 200,000 tons and aiming for 1 million tons by 2030 in the long term. We’re also actively planning our first plant outside Turkey, with our sights set on Europe. Where possible, we try to avoid the term 'waste' because what we’re really doing is reclaiming value from existing materials—and the industry is starting to see that, too.

JS: What environmental impacts have RE&UP’s reductions in water use and CO₂ emissions had on local communities?

AD: The benefits are tangible. By drastically reducing water use and CO₂ emissions compared to virgin fibre production, we’re not just hitting environmental KPIs, we’re supporting healthier ecosystems and more sustainable local economies. Our benchmark reflects in LCA, and we’re working closely with a leading third-party LCA Auditor Company on these assessments, all backed up with data. Early results are very promising and, once consolidated, will offer a robust footprint for our customers to use in their own reporting.

JS: How does RE&UP’s business model contribute to a circular economy in the textile industry?

AD: Our model is built around closing the loop—literally. We turn post-consumer and post-industrial textiles into high-performance fibres that slot straight back into the supply chain. And because our materials are cost-competitive compared to virgin alternatives, brands don’t have to choose between circularity and profitability. That’s what makes this model scalable.

JS: How has RE&UP managed to maintain cost-competitiveness while prioritizing environmental responsibility?

AD: Sustainability doesn't have to come with a price penalty. By optimising efficiency and operating at scale, we’re able to offer cost-competitive alternatives to virgin fibres. Our materials deliver on both quality and price and that’s key if we want circularity to move beyond pilot projects and into the mainstream.

JS: In what ways does RE&UP assist brands with compliance to sustainability regulations such as the EPR and the Green Claims Directive?

AD: Brands are under pressure to prove their sustainability claims – and rightly so. We help by providing traceable materials backed by third-party certifications like GRS and RCS, along with robust data to support impact reporting. Whether it’s preparing for EPR requirements or navigating the Green Claims Directive, we equip brands with real tools, not just good intentions.

JS: How important are GRS and RCS certifications to RE&UP, and how do you ensure product traceability?

AD: We see GRS and RCS as a starting point, not the end goal. They provide the foundation of credibility but our internal systems go further. We ensure traceability throughout the process, from material intake all the way to the final product. That kind of transparency gives brands the confidence they need, and regulators the proof they demand.

JS: With growing consumer demand for sustainability, how has RE&UP’s market positioning and customer response evolved?

AD: Sustainability has moved from a niche to a non-negotiable. More than ever, brands are coming to us not just because they want to be circular, but because they have to be. What’s changed is the urgency and the fact that customers are now asking the hard questions. Our traceable, high-performing fibres help brands answer those questions with confidence.

JS: What are the next steps for RE&UP in terms of innovation and environmental stewardship, and what role do you see for the company in the future of sustainable textiles?

AD: We’re focused on turning circularity into infrastructure. That means scaling our technology, opening new facilities and collaborating with like-minded players across the value chain. We also co-founded the T2T Alliance, alongside other leading textile-to-textile recyclers, to advocate for better policy and more ambitious standards across Europe. It’s not just about doing the right thing as a business; it’s about helping shape the future rules of the game.

JS: How is RE&UP engaging consumers and brands to raise awareness about textile recycling and circular fashion?

AD: Our focus has always been B2B, but consumer awareness is essential. We work closely with our brand partners to bring transparency to the forefront, helping them tell the story of where materials come from and why that matters. We also speak up at industry events, contribute to policy discussions, and share what we’re learning along the way. Education is part of the business model.

JS: Why do you think consumer behaviour plays a crucial role in driving sustainability in fashion?

AD: Because brands listen to their customers. When consumers demand transparency and circularity, it drives real change. But we also believe it’s our job to make those sustainable choices easier—to remove the friction. That’s why we focus on performance. If our fibres don’t match virgin quality, they won’t make it into the collections that people actually buy. We’re here to make the sustainable option the default, not the compromise.

JS: Are there any notable partnerships or collaborations that have helped accelerate RE&UP’s mission?

AD: Yes—and one we’re especially proud of is our ongoing partnership with PUMA, where we’ve been working together to integrate our Next-Gen fibres into performance-driven collections. It’s a perfect example of how sustainability and innovation can coexist without compromise. On a systems level, we’re also engaging with governments, recyclers, and NGOs to build an ecosystem that enables true circularity—not just one-off pilots.

JS: Andreas, thank you for sharing your expertise and the inspiring work RE&UP is doing to advance circularity in the textile industry. Your insights into the challenges and opportunities of scaling sustainable solutions offer valuable guidance for brands and stakeholders navigating this evolving landscape. We appreciate your openness and commitment to driving real change, and we look forward to seeing how RE&UP continues to shape the future of circular fashion.

"Closing the Loop at Scale: Andreas Dorner on how RE&UP is Powering Circularity in Textiles " was originally created and published by Just Style, a GlobalData owned brand.

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